Viking Knit is an ancient form of wire weaving that only uses a couple of tools (that you might already have in your stash) to create beautiful ropes of wire that you can use as part of a design, or as the design itself. While Viking Knit is beautiful on its own, it's a great way to showcase a focal piece. I'm always looking for ways to turn my wire wrapped and seed bead bezeled pieces into finished jewelry, and they look fantastic on a viking knit rope.
I recommend using a dead soft wire, like Artistic Wire or ColourCraft Wire, in 24, 26, or 28 gauge to weave Viking Knit. In addition to wire, you'll need a round object - I use the Beadalon Mandrel Set
- but you can use knitting needles, crochet hooks, markers, empty wire spools really anything round of a good diameter will work. You'll also need a Draw Plate,
and a Beading Awl.
Of course, you'll need a good Wire Cutter, and a Nylon Jaw Pliers will also come in handy.
From the Beadalon Mandrel Set, I like to use the 22.2mm dowel and the 9.5mm dowel, but you might find other sizes are the best for you.
Instructions:
1. Take the larger mandrel and wrap your wire around it 6 times. You can also start with more or less loops for a different looking knit. Squeeze the loops together about 1/3 of the way from the top, and wrap the longer wire around to secure. Remember - this piece is functional, it doesn't need to be pretty.
2. Separate the loops and bend them out into a flower shape.
3. Take the smaller mandrel, and place the loops on the top, and gently press them down around the mandrel. Take your time and make sure your loops are even(ish) around the top of the mandrel. You can use a piece of masking or washi tape to secure it at the top, but I've found that just holding it with my fingers work the best.
4. Bend about a 2.5ft piece of wire about two inches from the end and insert it short side to the left, long side to the right in one of the loops. Bring this wire over top of the loop that's being made, not behind.
5. Thread the end around and through the next loop. The wire will not be super cooperative, but jut make sure you show it who's in charge.
6. Continue around until you've woven through all of the loops and you're back to the beginning.
7. Now you want to thread the wire BEHIND the loop from the previous round. Pull the wire through and down to form another loop. Continue around until you get back to the beginning. Once you're at the beginning, continue threading the wire BEHIND the loop from the previous round. There's no step up to worry about!
8. When you need to add another wire, and you WILL need to add another wire, bend one end down about two inches, and insert it behind the last loop from left to right. You want the long end and the tail to be right next to each other so the new wire becomes an extension of the old one. Continue weaving with the new wire just as before. When you get back around to the end of this round, weave under all of the wires to lock them into place. After you've done two rounds, snip the two short wires taking care not to snip the loops or the longer wire.
9. Keep going until you have about 3.5 inches for a 7 inch bracelet. When you bring the wire through the draw plate, it will about double in size by the time you draw it down all the way. There are a lot of variables here - the gauge of wire, how tight your weave is, how small you're drawing it down, etc. I recommend starting with a ratio of 2:1, and go from there.
10. Remove the weave from the mandrel and start pulling it through the draw plate. Start at the largest hole that you can move the weave through, and pull from the front (where the measurements are) to the back. Draw it down through each smaller hole until it's the length and look that you want.
11. Take a thicker wire like 22 or 20 gauge, and gather up the loops on the end. Wrap one wire over the other, and thread the longer end through an end cap. Add a bead if you'd like, and make a wrapped loop to attach a clasp. Repeat on the other end.
Things to remember:
1. Your weaving doesn't need to be even and perfect - the Draw Plate will even everything out in the end.
2. Shorter pieces of wire are easier to weave with. Start with about 2.5 feet of wire. Adding wire is much easier and less frustrating than having to wrestle with a long piece of wire.
3. The first two rounds are the "sacrificial pancake" rounds. Don't get hung up on making these rounds pretty. They are there to get everything set up for the rest of the weave, and will either be cut off, or moved into place with the draw plate.
4. Use your Beading Awl if you need to make space to thread your wire.
5. Use your thumb and first finger to hold everything in place along the mandrel.
6. Make sure that you are only threading the wire behind the one loop where the wires are crossed, and not anywhere else in your design.
7. Try to make sure that the distance between your loops is equal.
8. If you're struggling with 24 gauge wire, try working with 26 gauge instead.
9. As you are weaving, move the weave up the mandrel. If you weave all the way down the mandrel, you run the risk of weaving it too tight and not being able to remove it.
10. When you're pulling through the draw plate, draw it through each smaller hole a couple of times before moving to the next smaller hole.
11. Use the Conetastic Tool to make ends for your rope!
You can watch the replay of the Facebook Live here. There are so many variations of Viking Knit that you can make by simply changing up your wire color, gauge, length and more. Have you made any projects using this technique? Post your tips, tricks, and designs in the Jewelry Making with Beadalon Facebook Page. Set your reminders and join me next time for the Beadalon Facebook Live on Thursdays at 2pm ET on the Beadalon Facebook Page!
Until then, happy beading!
Meredith
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